In my last blog I was a few hundred kilometres from the
coast and I had just met Marcios and he had explained about the little monkeys
of Brazil.
Since then I have cycled to the coastal range which
separated me from my primary objective of reaching the Atlantic and being able
to say that I had cycled from coast to coast.
A Litre of Yogurt Before Hitting the Pay Booth. |
Just prior to this I had my last bit of fun on the dual
carriage way and the staff of the pedagio’s. The pedagio’s are the toll booths
that I have passed through since starting the ride in Lima, Peru. If I had had
to pay for the use of the roads I would have been forking out $2-$3NZ a go every
time I came across one of these. In Peru and Bolivia they are even on what
would seem minor roads and some that they should have been paying me to cycle
on. Anyway I soon learnt that cyclists don’t pay. Despite the occasional booth
operator calling out to me something that sounded like “Hay come back and pay
you skinny legged, burnt nosed foreigner”. In Brazil you can have a bit of fun
with them by riding like a mad fart straight towards the most expensive entry
(which is the truck entrance and the one most on the right side) and then as
the girl comes out of the booth shouting you via off to the coned off area and
then along the footpath where your supposed to be shouting “pardon I don’t
speak Spanish.”
As I cycled along after these very predictable episodes I
wondered why they bothered to come out running as you approached the lane and I
think it’s because once you hit the strip the computer will immediately charge
you for your visit. And I suspect that they have no way to take the visit off.
I never went all the way so to speak because they’d no doubt then want to
charge me, for good reason. Fun and games.
Down the Range to the Atlantic. |
Yesterday I climbed this range and into the cloud before
finally taking the plunge down the other side and out to the Atlantic. What a
plunge it was. Mercian and I plunged down very steep roads for about 12kms
dropping I would say 1100mtrs. Now I wasn’t going to say this, but I will. This
decent was so extreme that I blew the rear tyre despite using both brakes,
resting front and back where possible and not overtaking anything. It was a
real bugger for two reasons, up until then (6000kms) I hadn’t had a puncture
and also because it was a 170km day I didn’t have a lot of time to piss about.
So I’m not calling that a puncture because it was self-induced and I got around
the time problem by missing out on lunch. As it was I had to do the last 5kms
in the dark. This is not recommended on Brazilian roads. But in the interests
of getting a bed for the night and dinner I did it. I should say that I have
got lights but couldn’t be bothered getting them out. Up until now except on my
first night in Lima I haven’t had to use them. I don’t intend to use them either.
If I can’t ride the distance in daylight then I’m just riding too far.
I Could See It! |
I have found from a fitness point of view though that I have
reached the point where I can ride for as long as I like as long as there’s
sufficient daylight.
Imagine my delight yesterday at seeing the coast and sea for
the first time in 7weeks! As a New Zealander I am used to always being close to
the coast. But in this instance I have suffered more than any other tour so to
get across was such a delight. Unfortunately with the pressures of limited
daylight and lack of time for food I really couldn’t enjoy it until today when
I had a mere 99kms to ride to a town called Angra dos Reis.
And then I was There. |
So I took the time today to enjoy and take photos. The coast
here 157km South of Rio De Janiero is so similar to the West Coast of the Sth
Island of New Zealand it almost made me homesick. It’s also similar to the Top
of the Sth Island NZ where I am from. Of course at 30C it’s a might warmer than
NZ generally is.
As happens in cycle travel you never quite know how the day
will pan out, and on arriving in Angra dos Reis
I picked a Hotel which I thought looked affordable. Upon inquiry found
out that it was fairly expensive at about $170NZ a night but that the price
included lunch (which I had time for), dinner, breakfast and everything in the
mini bar. It’s so hard to say O’ no too much I’ll just go back out into the
heat and look all over town for something cheaper. I have done tis a couple of
times and both times ended up back at the hotel with my tail between my legs.
So this time since it was the last hotel before Rio where I have backpackers
booked I said, “Hell yes, show me the minibar and then I’m hitting the
restaurant for lunch”.
And of course it has Wi-Fi so you are hearing from me.
An Easy Day to Let it Sink in. I'm Here. |
O’ and Karen if you are reading this I would gratefully
accept your donation of a room somewhere on my travels to this hotel. Not only
will you be putting a roof over your brothers head but filling my tummy which
at times this trip has been neglected somewhat. In fact I will raise my glass
to it now. Thanks again for following my travels and supporting me.
Tomorrow I have about 160kms to pedal on my last days
cycling in Sth America Then I will roll into Rio. I’m going to have to get up
early I think as I have to get to Rio with enough light to find the
backpackers. I’m sure that it won’t be easy, but just another hurdle to be
jumped. I can’t leave without my free breakfast though! I’ll try to get away by
7am.
If it Wasn't for the Towns, the Coast is similar to Top of The South NZ. |
Then once I arrive I will stop the clock as I will be
awaiting my flight to Morocco on Wed 25th April. So I have a few
days to see Rio, tune and clean the Mercian and in fact clean everything ready
for Leg2 Europe. And of course I will blog again to finalise a continental
crossing I will never forget.
Until then. (If you don’t hear from me then it will be
because my backpacker’s is so cheap they don’t have Wi-Fi)
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